Monday, 29 November 2010

Dragon Castle

 
Clockwise from the noodles at six o'clock: 
Chinese calamaris with dipping sauce; cheung fun; 
green seafood dumplings in steamer baskets; 
har gow; mo' cheng fun; the best ever sesame prawns toasts; 
two types of spring rolls.


When Dragon Castle opened around the corner four years ago, I could hardly believe it and nor could a succession of incredulous reviewers. What on earth was a 200 seat restaurant, serving Cantonese cooking as good as any in London, doing at the Elephant?

I suppose it's a sign of how established the Chinese community has become here since 1997, when Hong Kong was handed back and Metro Central Heights was marketed to anxious capitalists looking for a bolt hole as being 5 minutes from Trafalgar Square (which it is, given a motorbike and no red lights). Since then, plenty of Chinese students have come to study at Southbank University, which has become a major property developer, building halls of residence for students from colleges all over London. Dragon Castle occupies the ground floor of a dormitory building for art students from Camberwell & Central St. Martins.

It's big and its menu is voluminous, containing rare and precious specialities (e.g.: abalone) and one feature which I totally respect: a list of fish, plus a list of seven ways they can be served, so one can mix and match. One might choose swordfish steamed or grilled with black bean sauce, for example, or red snapper fillet grilled 'with Mummy style' (no idea!). Plus, they offer lobster and crab in no fewer than ten permutations. In fact, Dragon Castle is quite an emphatic statement. It says that, at the site of the largest urban regeneration project in Europe, the Cantonese are here to stay. Not that its clientele are exclusively, or even predominently Chinese. This is the Elephant, guv. All are welcome.

I have but one problem with the place. Its opening coincided, more-or-less, with my vegetarianism. Although the menu also offers a list of nine greens, inviting customers to 'Select Any One Item of Vegetable... And Then Decide on a Cooking Method' from a list of ten, the Cantonese don't really do vegetarian. Seafood and pork is what they do. So, I haven't been as regular a customer as I might have been. But I do love dim sim.

Yum cha - taking tea, which implies consuming dim sum - is perhaps the most civilised, sociable way to eat. It's best if you can raise a party of at least six, so you can bag one of the circular tables with the turntable in the middle. Dragon Castle has a numbered, illustrated dim sum menu and an ordering system in which you indicate how many orders of each dish you want (most items are served in threes or fours) with prices starting at £2.80, going up to £3.50. Then there's the specials list, upon which DC appears to pride itself. We enjoyed bright green seafood dumplings with spinach, as seen in the picture above.

Usually, my friends are happy to leave the ordering to me and I am more than happy to oblige: bring on taro croquettes; grilled turnip cake; cheung fun with asparagus, or scallops. Cheung fun is a kind of rice pasta tube, not unlike cannelonis, stuffed with a variety of fillings, or none. We tried plain cheung fun with sesame and hoi sin, which was weirdly good.

Har gow - prawns steamed in pleated wrappers - are deemed to be preeminent dim sum and the expertise of a dim sum chef is determined by how many pleats he puts in his wrapper. Well, here the har gow are wicked but the crystal prawn dumplings with chives are even better. Har gow are often or usually accompanied by shumai, pork dumplings, and cha siu bau, pork buns. But I don't, as a rule, do pork. Not that one can easily avoid pig meat here. The wonderful crsipy taro croquettes have porky paste at their centre, as does the sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf, to which I am also partial.

I customarily order noodles and greens - this time, pak choi with ginger and garlic - to fill up on and, in a party, do the ordering in at least two rounds because there will always be items that some of your friends feel they didn't get quite enough of. Once can afford to do this because the prices are eminently reasonable. We all felt very well fed and the bill came to £16 each.

Friday, 19 November 2010

Vegan Cottage Pie


I'm not sure it's strictly accurate to claim that a disproportionately large number of cottagers are vegan, but I've canvassed a few gay Fulham fans and they're not big meat eaters, contrary to what you might think. Not that I had gay footie fans in mind when I set about this, the latest version of my vegan pie, made with adzuki beans instead of meat with, in this case, pinto beans (although black eye peas may have been a more conventional choice). It's hard to overcook your pinto bean. I boiled 'em for a good half hour before adding the adzukis (both had been soaked overnight).

I cubed and sauteed swede, celeriac and parsnip in my big cast iron pan, putting the off cuts aside for mash. Steamed the root veg. bits with a couple of big white floury potatoes and put 'em through the ricer to make mash. Not got a ricer? Do yourself a favour and get down to Lewis's basement this weekend! Perfect mash every time and no messing. Beat some butter into the mash as it cools and season with S'n'P.

Made a gravy with a finely chopped onion at its base, along with a couple of shallots I found lurking, half a head of garlic that was past its best, plus a whole teaspoonful of my chopped Scotch Bonnets, which was perhaps half a teaspoon too much. I sweated this little lot down with two finely chopped field mushrooms, then added a litre of Marigold bouillon and the end of a tub of Marigold gravy granules. I have to say this product was a disappointment, considering how much it cost (@ Baldwins). I'll be sticking to Bisto vegetable gravy granules in future and never mind the E numbers.

I put the cooked beans into the big cast iron pan with the root cubes and mixed them together, adding the gravy and simmering with the big cast iron lid on for maybe fifteen or perhaps twenty minutes, before turning the heat off . Let it cool a bit before stirring in a dollop of www.miso.co.uk, the Sweet Brown One, that I get from Fare Shares. Then I spread the mash over the top of the mixture in the pan, scoring the top with a fork, and baked it on medium heat, say, 160*

It was pretty good if I say so myself. I made a lot and it's ageing well, the chili kick at the back of the throat having mellowed. I've eaten it hot with red cabbage, cooked in fresh apple 'n' pear juice from a carton, and lukewarm with the sprout salad seen in the picture, above.

* I know this is a snowflake, not a degree sign. Here's why.

Tuesday, 16 November 2010

Jaffna House

 I'm going to India in a few weeks, so want to get around as many of my favourite places in London before I leave and right at the top of the list is Jaffna House, across & along a bit from Tooting High Road tube.

This may be my favourite Tamil restaurant in the world; certainly in Tooting. It's an under-prepossessing Formica caff that's renowned as the Best Sri Lankan Restaurant.

Supposedly, there's a posher 'tandoori' dining room round the back. I've never seen it, because all the action is upfront, where old Tamil geezers in unlikely sportswear grumble to the long-suffering waitress and plump Anglo-Indian families binge on weird stuff you can't get elsewhere, like pittu and string hoppers with sothy.

That kind of speciality grub is all very well for expatriates and I do recommend Jaffna House above all the local dosai emporia, but the great bargain here is the £6 vegetarian lunch time thali, served until 3pm, as seen on the right, which includes (clockwise from bottom left): two types of curried potato, one with some veg and gravy, t'other with coconut; fabulous spinach curry; dal; wonderful aubergine curry; fried cabbage; plus multi-coloured rice and poppadom.

The spinach, which is somehow creamy and subtly spiced in a way that mystifies me, & aubergine, which is dark and accented with tamarind, are my favourites. Sometimes - in fact, often - I just have those two curries and a stack of chapatis (two per order; I usually need four), plus a salt lassi.

On the subject of drinks, do check what's coming with the thali, because you might otherwise end up with Coke. Today, it was Sunkist orange, which I can do, but otherwise I try and exchange the free drink for a cup of tea, which is not always possible, things being what they are.
Jaffna House on Urbanspoon

Sunday, 10 October 2010

Let Pumpkin Season Commence

I haven't given up on this blog, nor stopped cooking, but I had 'pooter problems during that big Mercury retrograde just gone and I travelled, first to Skye and then to Austria. I did some hearty cooking on Skye - including a vegan Shepherds' pie that's an ongoing project - and some refined eating in Austria, where Oktoberfest was going on and pumpkins kept cropping up.

We stayed a couple of nights at this fabulous hotel, Muhtalhof, where chef Helmut served a lip-smacking pumpkin soup, foamy and inflected with a hint of ginger & lemongrass, with dark roasted pumpkin soups. So souper was it that we had it again the next night as a little extra between courses (which included a clever ravioli made out of a thin slice of celeriac stuffed with truffled potato puree, salad with a poached egg in the middle - I do like a poached egg; I know it's not right - and three rough purees: red & green cabbages, plus carrot, with a crispy potato rosti. Not to mention the pumpkin ice cream that came with a souffle thingy at the end.) It was not exactly the hardest work I've ever done.

So, anyway, 'tis the season of pumpkin & suchlike. Plus, risotti. Questions this blog will be asking over Autumnal weeks include, what's the difference between a risotto and a pilaff? And, arborio vs. carnaroli: who really cares? I reckon one can use any short grain rice and, last week, I made a mightily bosky mushroom risotto with plain old pudding rice, finished with mascarpone.


For now, to use up the mascarpone, I made a soup out of this nondescript squash what I got. Started with half a mild onion and a couple of celery sticks, sweated with paprika. Added cubed squash & turned up the heat to saute. Then transferred to a soup pan, with a lid, and boiled the squash in Marigold bouillon. Blended and passed it through a seive, returned to pan and reheated, finished by beating in the mascarpone. It wasn't good! Way too muddy in the flavour department. I think it needed apples. Or lime juice? As it was, I give thanks to Brother Bru-Bru.

Monday, 30 August 2010

Curried mung

This was a clear-out curry, because I'm going off to sit  Vipassana for ten days tomorrow & needed to use up what I had, which happened to include some half-cracked mung beans. So I found myself making a curry that is straight out of the Vipassana cookbook. I've struggled with my equanimity, during past sittings, when confronted with a bland mung bean curry on day six and rued the ruling against offering Natco mango pickle, except on day ten. I didn't look at the Dhamma Dipa recipe, but suppose it goes pretty much like the one I made up: diced onion, carrot and celery sweated with garlic and seasoned with garam masala and haldi (turmeric). The Indian Ladies (a mystical sisterhood that I have served) would use asafoetida, sooner than garlic. My mung were not uniform. Some were sprouting, but the ones on the bottom hadn't cracked. Therefore, after adding the beans and covering the mixture with water, I simmered the curry for a good half hour, adding more water as necessary, then left it to stand for another ten mins. over next to no heat. It was OK, served with the end of a bag of basmati & zhushed up with Souna's Carrot Pickle. If you don't know Souna's pickles, its no surprise, since she doesn't like to advertise but, believe, Souna is one Indian Lady (Southall Chapter).

Friday, 27 August 2010

Sprout salad

Another version of the aborted salad from the other day, with pearl barley and adzuki sprouts, mixed with diced carrot 'n' celery and macerated in a miso broth with sesame oil & soy sauce, then mixed with more bean sprouts that have started to shoot. Served on a bed of alfalfa mixed with the remains of a bag of Florette that was in the 'fridge, sprinkled with toasted sunflower seeds and bestrewn with deep-fried tofu cubes. I adorned it with a dollop of store-bought mayo enlivened with the jalapeno sauce that's crept into the pic.

Thursday, 26 August 2010

Red pepper & lentil pasta sauce

This is the pasta sauce they serve on day one of a ten-day course @ Dhamma Dipa, pretty much. Get eight red'n'orange Dutch bell peppers for a quid down the Lane. Slice, de-seed & roast the peppers to concentrate their otherwise rather insipid flavour, along with garlic and any over ripe tomatoes that may lurk in one's 'fridge. If there's no lurkers, as today, use tinned innit. Boil a cupful of red lentils for 20 mins, until soft, and boil wholemeal pasta twists, or whatever pasta you prefer, al dente. Meanwhile, sauté diced onion, carrot and celery. This mirepoix needs to almost caramelise in the bottom of a sauce pan with a fitted lid. Season it with paprika & cayenne. Add the cooked or tinned tomatoes, minced roasted garlic, plus any dried herbs (such as oregano) and cook through. Mix the cooked red lentils into the tomato sauce. Chop the roasted peppers finely (or whizz 'em in a food processor) and put them into the sauce, adding a splash of water if it's too thick. You can add frozen peas, or corn kernels, at this point, as you fancy.
Drain the cooked pasta and return it to the pan, spoon the sauce over, stir it in and leave to stand with the lid on, over next-to-no heat, for three to five minutes. Garnish with fresh basil, if you have it, and serve with grated cheese.
I'm going to sit a vipassana course next week, so no doubt I'll be eating a version of this for lunch on Wednesday:-)

Wednesday, 25 August 2010

Refried brown rice & fried tofu

I soaked a cupful of pearl barley to see of it would sprout and, over a couple of days, it achieved a chewy consistency, which I though might compliment crunchy chori usli - sprouted adzuki beans - in a salad, perhaps with tamari and mirin? Having neither in store and being too tight to pay Baldwin's prices, I settled for soaking the sprouts in a sachet of instant miso soup with some diced carrot and celery, adding a jigger of sesame 'n' splash of soy sauce. I intended to drain when cold & add roasted sunflower seeds with shoyu sauce, which proved my undoing. I kept eating them, so had to make three batches & ruined my appetite for experimental salad. In the finish, I mixed a few table spoons of the sprout mix with leftover rice in the wok and served it on a bed of alfalfa, garnished with deep-fried tofu.

It seems wrong to fry tofu & it sure sucks up oil, but if you've got a block in the 'fridge that's a few days old, it's a good way to use it. You don't need to actually fry in a vat of oil, but you need enough to cover cubes of a decent size, tilting the wok as necessary. Cook on & on until they're golden. The blandness of tofu is a great backdrop for hot sauces and I bought a small bottle of Tabasco in the supermarket today for just a single one of your English pounds. Bargain!

Sunday, 22 August 2010

Sunday Brunch

Sometimes  - frequently @ weekends - only a good grease out will do. This is as close as I come, these days: no meat; but I do eat eggs & cheese. Well, I am who I am & I make no excuses. It's hard to get a really fresh egg in LDN but I buy the best available, strictly medium-sized. I've got a poacher and I do like egg sarnies, fried over-easy; but my favourite way with eggs is to scramble them, slowly, or, as in this case, make a two-egg omelette with Emmental. Time invested in roasting tomatoes with a pinch of salt before finishing them under the grill is rewarded by an intenser tomato hit, which I traditionally enhance with a drizzle of HP. 'Shrooms are sauteed and stewed in milk, like my Granny Peggy taught me, but I do draw the line at cow juice and use soya milk, instead. Plus lashings of black pepper. I'm buying Morrison's own brand organic baked beans at the mo. and Burgen soya & linseed bread, which is as close to Vogel's as my local supermarket gets.

Friday, 20 August 2010

Green chickpea curry

I love chick peas and was intrigued to discover the green variety, hara chana. I soaked & sprouted a cupful over a couple of days. Cooked 'em in a base of diced red onion & garic, sauteed with galangal & green curry paste; with a 2cm cube of creamed coconut dissolved in about 350ml water, gently simmered with the lid on for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid had absorbed; then thickened the sauce with another nubbin of creamed coconut, garnished with beansprouts, a squeeze of lime; cooked on for a few mins, stirring, until the sprouts wilted somewhat. Served with rice (brown short grain). Boomshankah Friday!

Rewokked it for tea with lashings of Hot Headz Jalapeño sauce.